Buckler Jeans, Urban City （ Buckler牛仔裤，市区的城市
01.Nov.2004, 04:08 pm 01.nov.2004 ，下午4时08分
Michael Moore groupies are to cheesy political tee shirts as worshippers of David Beckham as the metrosexual ideal are to:迈克尔摩尔groupies是俗气的政治发球衬衫作为信徒贝克汉姆作为metrosexual的理想是：
b.乙 Linkin Park concert hoodies.林肯公园音乐会hoodies 。
c.长 pink leather, zippered ties from Buckler.粉红色的皮革，拉链的关系从（ Buckler 。
d.四 a hyper-large sweater by Fubu.Mmm, C?超大毛衣由fubu.mmm ， c ？ Paired with ribbed sweater vests set to show off midriffs?搭配带肋毛衣背心设置为炫耀midriffs ？ And near fluorescent limely pants?和附近的荧光limely裤子呢？ Possibly a black hole-shaded rabbit fur scarf?可能是一个黑洞-阴影兔毛围巾？ Perhaps a white leather shopping bag thinly stamped with an old English coat of arms?或许白色皮革购物袋薄，盖上一岁英语纹章？
Or maybe Buckler’s entire stock of fall 2004?或者， （ Buckler的整个股票的2004年秋季？
Still, the Britophile line’s current collection spans far from some metrosexual cliché: marking Buckler’s second New York fashion week, the clothing continues to prance as ready to wear to watch.尽管如此， britophile行的目前收集跨度远一些metrosexual陈词滥调：标记（ Buckler的第二个新的纽约时装周，服装继续prance作为准备磨损观赏。 And then wear.然后磨损。
As with most men’s gear, the shows are more street wear reality than Sex and the City fantasy.与大多数男人的齿轮，显示更街穿比现实性和城市的幻想。 “I think men’s shows should have a sense of practical as most guys wish to express that in their look,” says designer Andrew Buckler. “我认为，男性的显示，应该有一个意识，作为最实际的家伙想表达，在他们看，说： ”设计师郑家富（ Buckler 。 Still, “I think a show is a show: it has to bring something interesting and new to its audience so your audience remembers and understands the collection.”还有， “我认为，一个显示是显示：它使一些有趣的和新的观众，使您的观众回忆和理解的收集” 。
And the collection flows as an easy extension of last season’s athletic aristo-luxe pieces.并收集流动作为一件容易的扩展上赛季的竞技aristo -豪华件。 Naturally, fall falls in dimmer colors: old grays, burnt oranges, and midnight blues, highlighted with orangey golds and Chanel pinks and sherbet greens, versus spring/summer 2004, which marked brighter and simpler times with less complicated jackets, shades of primary colors, and sleek and zippery bondage-meets-track pants.当然，属于属于在比较暗的颜色：旧格雷斯，烧毁橘子，和午夜蓝调，强调与orangey枚金牌和夏奈尔pinks和sherbet绿党，银两春/夏2004年，这标志着光明和简单的时代，与那么复杂，外套，色彩原色，和圆滑和zippery的枷锁-会见轨道裤子。
The autumn palette runs more city-sophisticate, from subtly bold—think Easter egg pastel polos and a lush, black-on-black rabbit fur jacket—to tastefully loud—thickly “pin”striped track pants and the aforementioned pink leather, front-zip tie.秋季调色盘运行更多的城市- sophisticate ，从巧妙的大胆思考复活节彩蛋粉彩辆Polo和郁郁葱葱的，黑就黑兔毛外套到高雅的大声厚厚的“密码” ，条纹裤及追踪上述的粉红皮革，前线邮编配合。
Despite what the average American bloke may have to say about satin-covered buttons and manly pinks, the collection is self-proclaimedly “overtly masculine.”尽管美国人的平均bloke可能有说约缎盖按钮和男子汉pinks ，收集是自我proclaimedly “公然男性化” 。
“Buckler has always played on the masculine aspects in a mod Bond, understated but confident way,” says the Brit-born designer. “ （ Buckler一直发挥着对男性方面，在按付款当日价格计算的债券，低估，但自信的方式， ”说，英国出生的设计师。 It’s “his roguishness and his mismatches with some humor that make him sexy.”它的“ ，他roguishness和他的错配的一些幽默，使他的性感” 。
Springtime captured that same classic Bond, James Bond vibe with pencil legged suits and graphic prints of coy bouffant lady-faces on tees.春天抓获，同经典的债券， 007再接再厉，与铅笔腿的西装和图形的打印青年事务委员会bouffant夫人-面临的三通。
It’s tee shirt and denim basics that staple spring and fall together: tees of Buckler’s trademark crest and mod prints link spring to fall, along with truly designer denim.它的发球上衣及牛仔布的基本认为，主食春天和秋天一起：三通的（ Buckler的商标嵴和按付款当日价格计算打印链接春天秋天，随着真正的设计师牛仔。
“After [working as head menswear designer for] Daryl K, I worked on developing slim low-rise jeans for guys. “之后[工作，担任男装设计师]达里亚尔钾，我的工作对发展中国家的超薄低层牛仔裤为家伙。 At that time there weren’t any around,” says Buckler.在那个时间有没有靠近，说： “ （ Buckler 。 “I think it’s interesting how in the past jeans came as a second thought to a designer’s collections, they were and still are in some cases [just] a commodity. “我认为这是有趣的是如何在过去的牛仔裤来作为第二思想，以设计师的集合，他们现在仍然是在某些情况下， [刚才]一种商品。 You can’t just take a generic jean and slap your name on it anymore, it’s become a science, the yarn, how it’s spun, where’s it from, the chemicals in the washes, it’s an incredible process.你不能只是采取一种通用Jean和打你的名字不再，它的成为一门科学，纱线，它如何的纺，那里的，它从，化学品，在洗，这是一个令人难以置信的过程。 In twenty-first century designer collections your denim has to be exactly right and a focus of the collection, in the same way they spent hours stitching tailoring you need to spend hours on your jeans.”在二十一世纪的设计师集合您的牛仔布已被完全正确和重点收集，在相同的方式，他们花了许多时间花在拼接剪裁，你需要花时间对你的牛仔裤“ 。
Maybe that sort of loyalty runs from:也许，这种忠诚度是由：
a. 字母a. Buckler’s passion for combining denim culture with a design attitude. （ Buckler的热情相结合的牛仔文化与设计的态度。 “At the moment there’sa bit of a gulf,” says Buckler. “目前，有位一个海湾，说： ” （ Buckler 。 “One the one end you got a bit down and dirty, which is a bit street-like, and on the other end you have this suit, very clean look. “一个一个年底得到了一个位向下和肮脏的，这是一个位元街一样的，和对的另一端，你有这西装，很干净的外观。 Buckler is about separates: you can take a suit jacket and try it on with a pair of jeans and it’s great.” （ Buckler是关于政企分开：您可以采取的西装，夹克和尝试，与牛仔裤和它的伟大“ 。b. 乙 the original “Sexy Bastard”-dubbed denim’s spawning of a line of “Sexy Bastard” underwear. 原来的“性感的王八” -被称为牛仔的产卵一条线“性感王八”内衣。 It’s “a low-rise boxer brief that will sit below the waistline on low-rise jeans,” says Buckler. 它的“低层义和团简短表示，将坐在下面腰围对低层牛仔裤，说： ” （ Buckler 。 “There are parts of the design which are unique and being patented–it will bring a whole new aspect to men’s underwear.” Or is it “有部分的设计都有它独特的和正在专利 - 它会带来一个全新的方面，以男士内衣” ，或者是它 c. 长 Buckler’s trademark coat of arms, stamping tee’s and bags and catalogues. （ Buckler的商标纹章，冲压三通的及袋和产品目录。 “We wanted to use something real,” explains Buckler, likely descendant of the said Buckler, Sir Buckler. “我们想利用一些真实的， ”解释（ Buckler ， 可能的后代，该说（ Buckler ，主席先生（ Buckler 。 “There have been many ‘coats of arms’ used in fashion and this happened to be an actual coat of arms awarded to Sir Walter Buckler in 1544 by Henry Vlll King of England, with a great Latin slogan [“Loyal unto Death”]; it genuinely gave it some depth out side of just a fashion logo.” How about all of the above? “有很多'大衣武器'用在时装和这件事成为一个实际的纹章批给主席先生瓦尔特（ Buckler在1544年由亨利vlll国王英格兰，与一个伟大的口号，拉丁美洲 [ ”忠于祂的死亡“ ] ;真正给了一些深入出来的一面只是一个时尚的标志。 “又如何，上述所有？ Plus Buckler’s easy understanding of fashion as more than mere merchandise?加（ Buckler的容易理解的方式不仅仅是商品？
That sounds right, considering Buckler’s Masters of Art from the Royal College of Art.这听起来的权利，考虑到（ Buckler的主人，艺术，从英国皇家艺术学院。 “I’m always intrigued by the way garments are made,” says Buckler, “and I design to find ways that create details that come from the construction and technology that can make them, from fabrication or mixing old ideas with new ones.” “我一直推出的方式，服装，说： ” （ Buckler ， “我的设计，设法创造的细节，来自建设和技术，能够使他们，从制造或混合旧观念与新的” 。
Yeah, let’s check “all of the above.”是啊，让我们检查“ ，上述所有” 。
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