Fashion Writer KRISTOPHER DUKES

D&A’s Holiday in LA - Designers and Agents and Sales, Oh My!

Published in Fashion Wire Daily, June 15, 2005

Despite bonding last season’s latest looks with an intermittent market week, D&A’s Holiday ‘05 LA trade event still mapped happy buying times for participants. And why not? With Los Angelese weather, the stroll between the D&A’s 11th floor in the Cooper Design Space and and 3rd floor in the New Mart was short and pleasant, and the spaces’ coffee tables — decaf with a dash of soy milk and Splenda, please — were only emptied for tequila and salsa sessions.

Details like these give D&A the friendly, boutiquey feel the show is known for. “The ambiance is great-the DJ, the handpicked lines, the manageable size, good food, beautiful floral arrangements,” says Mary Brennan, of Mary Brennan & Co. showroom. “There’s an overall friendly and relaxed atmosphere which makes doing business pleasurable.”

And for those favoring substance over style — not into vintage Madonna remixes? — vendors swear their booths bank, in dollars and exposure. “The traffic at these shows is excellent, far more than I could ever generate in my showroom at this time-or ever,” continues Brennan. “This venue, in my opinion, is the upscale boutique version of fashion trade shows… It’s special for many reasons. The show is walked by the most upscale boutiques and majors in the business, not to mention magazine editors and stylists.”

Usually only a few flights away — Mary Brennan & Co.’s showroom is in the Cooper building, too — Brennan was joined by fellow Angelenos, like Kim White of Kim White Handbags.

“I’ve been doing the LA show for about a year and a half, and it’s been amazing in terms of exposure and sales,” says White. “It started my business for me, and there’s no way my line would be where it is today without this particular show. I did the Accessorie Circuit in NY before I did D&A LA, and it wasn’t a good venue for my aesthetic. Where Accessorie Circuit is more corporate and conservative, D&A is more cutting edge. The buyers at D&A are definitely more willing to try new lines that don’t have a branded name.”

Composing clutches and hobos out of vintage car textiles, Kim White Handbags’ cheeky-chic is just as welcome as more streamlined and trendy handbag lines like Anna Listenbee. Making a market week debut with their fashionista-meets-utilitarian bag, Anna Listenbee’s business director Jennifer Woodle started with D&A for the same reasons vendors return: “I was attracted to the atmosphere, their professionalism, and their strong sense of the business. I think they make really good decisions on who they let in the show. They have good instincts and can spot talent. Also, there’s a really good vibe. I learned so much from the other vendors. We talked about best practices, tricks of the trade, etc.”

Relationships are also part of what encouraged Rocawear’s Rachel Roy to jet from the other coast and do trade in LA. “I actually worked with [D&A coproducer] Barbara Kramer when I moved to New York City, for her multi-line showroom, so I’ve known her for about ten years,” says Kimberly Hartman, sales for Rachel Roy. “When Barbara and [coproducer] Ed [Mandelbaum] started D&A, they created a new concept trade show that’s a little smaller, a little more boutiquey, and more specialized.” And while Rachel Roy is a Swarovski-crystal-and-brocade jacket in a haystack of mostly more typical LA fare like denim-Earl Jean, Stitch S, Hudson Jeans-and blank tees, the line does more than fine. “We do this show because all buyers do shop it and we enjoy it. Barbara and Ed really bring it to the buyers. They provide the platform for young designers to be seen by the most important buyers in the industry. That’s why we’re there, and that’s why it’s been successful for us.”

And the spread of tea and organic honey isn’t so bad either.

Oh, K

Less into f**k-me shoes and more into f**k-you shoes, writer KRiSTOPHER DUKES blogs about D&A’s Holiday in LA - Designers and Agents and Sales, Oh My!, It bags, and more. »

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